Hair-care guide

Dandruff vs Dry Scalp: How to Tell the Difference

TheWashDay editorial · Updated · From the American Academy of Dermatology and Wikipedia · How we compare

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You can’t reliably tell dandruff from a dry scalp by the flakes alone: the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) describes dandruff itself as small pieces of dry skin flaking off the scalp, sometimes with itching. The rest of the picture gives clues, not a diagnosis. A tight-feeling scalp, dry skin elsewhere and flakes that get worse in cold, dry weather lean toward dryness; an oily, itchy scalp leans toward dandruff. The AAD says mild dandruff often improves with regular washing, and with a dandruff shampoo if that isn’t enough. Flakes that look like dried product may be build-up, a third possibility.

At a glance

Leans toward dry scalpLeans toward dandruff
Flakes Small and dry; they can look just like dandruffSmall pieces of dry skin, the AAD says; they can look just like a dry scalp
Scalp Feels tight or dry, often with dry skin elsewhereCan be oily; often itchy
Often worse In cold, dry weather or with hot waterWhen washing is less frequent
First thing to try Lukewarm water, gentle scalp massage, watch for a product that triggers itWash regularly; then a dandruff shampoo, as the AAD suggests
See a dermatologist If it keeps going or itches a lotIf it continues despite dandruff shampoo or gets severe

What dermatologists suggest for dandruff

Over-the-counter dandruff shampoos contain one of a few active ingredients: zinc pyrithione, salicylic acid, sulfur, selenium sulfide, ketoconazole or coal tar. Lather it onto the scalp and follow the label; some need to stay on for up to 5 to 10 minutes. If one doesn’t help, the AAD suggests alternating with a shampoo that has a different active ingredient.

For coarse, curly or coily hair, the AAD suggests washing as needed and using the dandruff shampoo about once a week if tolerated, on the scalp only because the actives can dry the hair, followed by your usual shampoo and conditioner if your hair needs them.

If it looks like dry scalp

Wash with lukewarm rather than hot water, massage shampoo into the scalp with your fingertips instead of scratching with nails, and rinse well. Notice whether a particular product makes it worse. Dry scalp that keeps going, or itches a lot, is worth showing a dermatologist.

Or is it product build-up?

Flakes that appear a day or two after styling, look like dried gel and come off the hair rather than the skin may be product. A clarifying wash is a simple first thing to try. If the flakes keep coming back, try the steps above for dandruff and a dry scalp, and see a dermatologist if they continue, as the AAD advises.

When to see a dermatologist

Most people never need medical care for dandruff. The AAD advises a board-certified dermatologist if flakes continue despite these steps or get severe, because flakes can also come from seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, a scalp fungal infection or eczema, which need different treatment.

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