Choose the job before the products
Decide whether this is a regular wash, a reset because you can see buildup, a reset after swimming or hard water, a wash focused on conditioning, or a styling day. That decides which steps you need. Gather your products and read each label before you get in the shower, especially if you’ve recently colored or smoothed your hair or need to avoid an ingredient.
Also decide how many steps you’ll actually do. A four-step routine done carefully is more useful than six layers added out of habit. If you’re trying a change, keep your other products and rough amounts the same.
1. Cleanse or clarify
Use one regular shampoo for an ordinary wash. Wet your scalp and hair as the maker says, apply, massage or lather, and rinse. Some makers say to lather twice; others say to repeat only if you want or need to. Follow the directions for the product you chose.
For a reset, swap in one clarifying shampoo. Don’t use a regular shampoo and a clarifier together out of habit. The exception is when a maker says so, as PATTERN does: its Hydration Shampoo may follow the Cleansing Shampoo if you like. How often to clarify, and what to do after color, vary by product, so go by its own directions.
2. Condition or use a mask
Use one rinse-out conditioner or one deep conditioner. Apply it where the maker says, spread it evenly, detangle if the directions say to, leave it on for the stated time, and rinse. Some rinse-out conditioners stay on for one to three minutes; masks can take five to 30 minutes, or longer when a maker gives a no-heat time.
Don’t assume a mask goes on after conditioner. Briogeo says to use its deep conditioning mask instead of conditioner. Curlsmith says to use its Essential Moisture Conditioner or Double Cream Deep Quencher in a wash, not both. PATTERN’s Intensive Conditioner can be your conditioner, or a mask if you leave it on for ten minutes. tgin goes the other way: its directions put a rinse-out conditioner on before Honey Miracle Hair Mask.
While the conditioner is in, keep your hair wet and work in manageable sections. Use your fingers or a wide-tooth comb, starting at the ends and moving up without pulling through a knot. Follow the product’s time and rinse directions; detangling doesn’t call for another product or a longer wait.
3. Add leave-in only if you want the layer
Leave-in goes on after you rinse out conditioner. Apply it to hair as wet as the maker says, where the maker says. A spray and a cream spread differently, but neither is required for any porosity label. If you want fewer layers, skip this step and see how the simpler routine works.
When you do use leave-in, measure a starting amount you can repeat. Add more only where it didn’t reach. If your roots and ends differ, change where it goes rather than using more all over.
4. Style for the result you chose
Styler is the last optional product. Choose gel, foam or no styler for the finish and hold you want, then follow the product’s directions on how wet your hair should be, sectioning and drying. Don’t add a gel just because a generic routine lists one; use it when you want what it does.
If you use both leave-in and styler, keep track of how much of each you use. If your hair feels coated and both amounts changed, you can’t tell which one caused it.
5. Air-dry or diffuse
After any leave-in and styler, air-dry or diffuse. Air-drying needs time and as little touching as you can manage. Diffusing needs a diffuser that fits your dryer, and a separate decision about heat protection. For a gel that dries to a cast, wait until your hair is fully dry before the final scrunch. The routine builder keeps those choices with your products when you share or print.
Note enough to improve the next wash
Save your steps in order, the bottle sizes, rough amounts and any step you skipped. Note whether the shampoo rinsed out cleanly, the conditioner time worked for you, the optional layers helped your style, and any direction that was hard to follow. Compare products that do the same step side by side, and use the cost calculator with your own amounts. One clear result is enough to pick your next small change.
Questions before your next wash
What if I am still unsure what to change?
Keep the steps that work, change one thing at a time and follow your product’s directions. A guide can’t tell you what’s causing a scalp or hair problem.
Updated · The sources for this guide are on our Sources page. Report a changed detail.