Look at your hair’s history, not just how it behaves
Microscopy research has found structural differences in hair exposed to repeated cosmetic treatments, including bleaching, dyeing and straightening. That’s why it helps to know what your hair has been through. It doesn’t let a website judge the state of your hair or promise that a product will reverse those changes. Note which sections are processed, older or often heated, and compare them with newer growth.
Fast wetting or drying is one clue. Also note whether your ends tangle sooner, whether conditioner rinses away before you finish detangling, and whether a measured amount of leave-in covers evenly. Watch the same sections over several washes before settling on a label.
Choose your wash for what it needs to do
Use one regular shampoo for an ordinary wash. If you want a reset because your hair looks coated, lathers less or has been in a pool, swap in one clarifying shampoo that suits your hair’s color history. Don’t use two shampoos unless the maker says to. A product’s directions, and its limits after color or chemical treatments, matter more than a porosity label.
For example, OLAPLEX says to wait two weeks after permanent color or a smoothing treatment before using its clarifier, and Malibu C says Un-Do-Goo is not color-safe. Those are firm limits. A general claim that all high-porosity hair should use or avoid one shampoo is not.
Use a conditioner or a mask, not both
After shampoo, use one rinse-out conditioner or one deep conditioner. A mask doesn’t automatically go on top of your regular conditioner. Briogeo says to use its mask instead of conditioner, and Curlsmith says to use its rinse-out conditioner or its Double Cream Deep Quencher in a wash, not both. Following that keeps your routine simple and avoids steps you don’t need.
Compare where each one goes and for how long. OLAPLEX says to apply Nº.5 from mid-lengths to ends for one to three minutes. Curlsmith says to work its mask through wet hair for 10 to 30 minutes. PATTERN’s Intensive Conditioner can be used as a ten-minute mask. Pick the one that fits this wash and follow its directions.
Add layers only where your hair needs them
Leave-in and styler stay optional. If your older ends lose slip before your roots do, put a measured amount of leave-in where it’s needed instead of coating everything equally. If you want strong hold, choose a gel its maker describes that way. If you want no styler, stop after conditioning. Porosity doesn’t set a number of layers you must use.
Keep the amount the same each time. A small scale, measuring spoon or marked container tells you more than “a generous amount.” If the next wash feels uneven, change the amount or where it goes before replacing several products at once.
Read ingredient lists for what they say, nothing more
An ingredient list can show fragrance, named silicones, proteins or amino acids. Their presence alone cannot tell you whether a product will repair your hair, irritate your skin or suit your routine.
Use the ingredient list on the maker’s site to narrow your options, then check the bottle you receive. When a formula changes, the website and the bottle can differ. If you have a known allergy, go by the label on your bottle and your doctor’s advice, not a website filter.
Expect your answer to change
Start with shampoo, one conditioning step and the styling layers you want. Adjust after seeing the result, especially if your roots and processed ends behave differently.
Questions before your next wash
What if I am still unsure what to change?
Keep the steps that work, change one thing at a time and follow your product’s directions. A guide can’t tell you what’s causing a scalp or hair problem.
Updated · The sources for this guide are on our Sources page. Report a changed detail.