Hair-care guide

Coily hair (type 4)

TheWashDay editorial · Updated · From Wikipedia and the American Academy of Dermatology · How we compare

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Coily hair grows in tight coils or sharp Z-shaped bends, from defined coils at 4A to the tightest, least defined pattern at 4C. Coils shrink a lot and tangle easily, so the usual wash day is built around sections, detangling with plenty of conditioner and touching the hair as little as possible. If the ends feel dry soon after washing, a leave-in with a cream or oil over it is the common next layer.

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Breakage when detangling

Detangle only with conditioner in, in small sections, ends first.

Fix breakage

Hair looks much shorter than it is

Shrinkage is normal for coils. Stretch with twists, braids or banding if you want length.

Work with shrinkage

Ends feel dry by day two

Layer leave-in, then a cream or oil, on wet hair.

Fix dry hair

4A, 4B and 4C

4A has tight, defined coils with an O-shape you can see. 4B bends in sharp Z-shapes and shows less pattern. 4C is the tightest, with little visible pattern unless you look closely, and the most shrinkage. Many heads mix all three.

A wash day built for coils

The American Academy of Dermatology suggests washing Black hair once a week or every other week, using conditioner every time with the ends covered, and keeping braids and weaves loose enough that they never hurt.

  • Many people pre-poo first: oil or conditioner on dry lengths to soften knots before water goes on.
  • Wash in sections, keeping each one twisted or clipped so it doesn’t tangle again.
  • Cleanse the scalp, then condition with enough product to feel real slip.
  • Detangle each section with conditioner in, starting at the ends, with fingers or a wide-tooth comb.
  • Put leave-in on wet hair, then a cream, butter or oil to seal it.
  • Style in sections: twists, braids, a wash-and-go with gel, or a stretched style.

Coily hair routine: what it costs

One product for each wash-day step, chosen only from products whose makers say they’re for coily hair (or for one of its letters), priced at each maker’s own store. The left column takes the cheapest per ounce at every step; the right takes the one in the middle. We haven’t tested them, and how your own hair responds matters more than the price.

Lowest price per ounce

The product at each step that costs least per ounce.

  1. Shampoo or co-wash As I Am Coconut CoWash Cleansing Conditioner · its maker says every curl pattern 16 oz, $8.99 at As I Am ($0.56/oz) What a wash costs at your amount
  2. Conditioner Aunt Jackie's In Control Moisturizing Softening Conditioner · its maker says every curl pattern 15 oz, $10.95 at Aunt Jackie's ($0.73/oz) What a wash costs at your amount
  3. Leave-in PATTERN Leave-In Conditioner 25 fl oz, $49.00 at PATTERN ($1.96/fl oz); 3 fl oz to try, $12.00 What a wash costs at your amount
  4. Styler The Doux BIG POPPA Defining Gel · its maker says every curl pattern 16 oz, $14.99 at The Doux ($0.94/oz) What a wash costs at your amount

To try it in the smallest sizes: $46.93
In the sizes above: $83.93

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Middle of the price range

The product in the middle of each step’s prices per ounce.

  1. Shampoo or co-wash Bouclème Curl Cleanser 1 liter, $73.00 at Bouclème ($2.16/fl oz); 100 mL to try, $17.00 What a wash costs at your amount
  2. Conditioner Ouidad Curl Quencher Moisturizing Conditioner 33.8 oz, $60.00 at Ouidad ($1.78/oz); 8.5 oz to try, $24.00 What a wash costs at your amount
  3. Leave-in Bouclème Curl Cream 1 liter, $85.00 at Bouclème ($2.51/fl oz); 100 mL to try, $19.00 What a wash costs at your amount
  4. Styler PATTERN Curl Gel 25 fl oz, $49.00 at PATTERN ($1.96/fl oz); 3 fl oz to try, $12.00 What a wash costs at your amount

To try it in the smallest sizes: $72.00
In the sizes above: $267.00

Open this routine in the planner

37 of the 44 products we list for coily hair at these steps had a size in stock at the maker’s store when we read it, so only those are ranked. Some makers print “oz” without saying fluid or weight; we compare them as printed. Prices checked between and ; stores change them. Every price per ounce.

Shrinkage is your curl pattern

Coils can look far shorter dry than they are stretched. That is the pattern, not damage. To show length, stretch the hair after washing with twists, braids or banding, or blow-dry on low heat with a heat protectant.

Handle it less

Every combing, twisting or restyle puts strain on the tight bends. Protective styles such as twists and braids, a satin bonnet at night, and detangling only on wash day cut down how often that happens.

Products whose makers say they’re for coily hair

These products’ own pages say they’re made for coily hair, or for a range of curl patterns that includes it. The words are the maker’s; we haven’t tested these products, and how your own hair responds decides more than the label.

Named for coily hair or a range that includes it (22)

Made for every curl pattern (42)

Updated · The sources for this guide are on our Sources page. Report a changed detail.

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