Hair-care guide

4A hair

TheWashDay editorial · Updated · From Wikipedia and the American Academy of Dermatology · How we compare

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4A hair grows in small, tight coils with a clear O-shaped pattern and shrinks a lot as it dries. If the ends feel dry soon after washing, the usual wash day seals water in: wash and detangle in sections, then a leave-in and a cream or oil, and a gel if you want defined coils.

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Coils feel dry soon after washing

Layer leave-in, then a cream or oil, on wet hair.

Fix dry hair

You want defined coils

Gel or a curl cream on wet sections, then let it dry untouched.

Gels and foams compared

4A or 4B?

4B bends in sharp Z-shapes and shows less pattern.

How to tell

What 4A hair looks like

4A coils are small, springy and clearly visible, each forming an O or S. Check strand thickness and density separately: the pattern doesn’t tell you either.

Compared with 3C, the coils are smaller. Compared with 4B, the pattern is easy to see without styling.

A 4A wash day

The American Academy of Dermatology suggests washing Black hair once a week or every other week and using conditioner every time.

  • Pre-poo, or loosen knots in dry hair with a little oil or conditioner before wetting.
  • Wash in sections, cleansing the scalp.
  • Condition every wash and detangle each section with conditioner in, ends first.
  • Put leave-in on wet hair, then a cream, butter or oil to seal it.
  • Define with gel or cream on wet sections, as their labels say, for a wash-and-go, or twist for a twist-out.

A 4A hair routine and what it costs

One product for each wash-day step, chosen only from products whose makers say they’re for 4A hair, priced at each maker’s own store. The left column takes the cheapest per ounce at every step; the right takes the one in the middle. We haven’t tested them, and how your own hair responds matters more than the price.

Lowest price per ounce

The product at each step that costs least per ounce.

  1. Shampoo or co-wash As I Am Coconut CoWash Cleansing Conditioner · its maker says every curl pattern 16 oz, $8.99 at As I Am ($0.56/oz) What a wash costs at your amount
  2. Conditioner Aunt Jackie's In Control Moisturizing Softening Conditioner · its maker says every curl pattern 15 oz, $10.95 at Aunt Jackie's ($0.73/oz) What a wash costs at your amount
  3. Leave-in PATTERN Leave-In Conditioner 25 fl oz, $49.00 at PATTERN ($1.96/fl oz); 3 fl oz to try, $12.00 What a wash costs at your amount
  4. Styler The Doux BIG POPPA Defining Gel · its maker says every curl pattern 16 oz, $14.99 at The Doux ($0.94/oz) What a wash costs at your amount

To try it in the smallest sizes: $46.93
In the sizes above: $83.93

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Middle of the price range

The product in the middle of each step’s prices per ounce.

  1. Shampoo or co-wash Bouclème Curl Cleanser 1 liter, $73.00 at Bouclème ($2.16/fl oz); 100 mL to try, $17.00 What a wash costs at your amount
  2. Conditioner Ouidad Curl Quencher Moisturizing Conditioner 33.8 oz, $60.00 at Ouidad ($1.78/oz); 8.5 oz to try, $24.00 What a wash costs at your amount
  3. Leave-in Bouclème Curl Cream 1 liter, $85.00 at Bouclème ($2.51/fl oz); 100 mL to try, $19.00 What a wash costs at your amount
  4. Styler PATTERN Curl Gel 25 fl oz, $49.00 at PATTERN ($1.96/fl oz); 3 fl oz to try, $12.00 What a wash costs at your amount

To try it in the smallest sizes: $72.00
In the sizes above: $267.00

Open this routine in the planner

37 of the 44 products we list for 4A hair at these steps had a size in stock at the maker’s store when we read it, so only those are ranked. Some makers print “oz” without saying fluid or weight; we compare them as printed. Prices checked between and ; stores change them. Every price per ounce.

What usually goes wrong

Breakage usually comes from detangling dry or in big sections. If your ends feel dry soon after washing, put a cream or oil over the leave-in, and keep most handling to wash day.

Products whose makers say they’re for 4A hair

These products’ own pages say they’re made for 4A hair, or for a range of curl patterns that includes it. The words are the maker’s; we haven’t tested these products, and how your own hair responds decides more than the label.

Named for 4A hair or a range that includes it (21)

Made for every curl pattern (42)

Updated · The sources for this guide are on our Sources page. Report a changed detail.

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