Hair-care guide

4B hair

TheWashDay editorial · Updated · From Wikipedia and the American Academy of Dermatology · How we compare

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4B hair bends in sharp, Z-shaped angles rather than round coils, so its pattern is less defined and it looks dense and full. It shrinks a lot and can snap at the bends when combed dry, so the usual 4B wash day is about slip and sections: detangle gently with plenty of conditioner, seal water in if the ends feel dry, and style in twists, braids or small gelled sections to show the pattern.

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Breakage while detangling

Detangle with conditioner in, in small sections, fingers first.

Fix breakage

Pattern doesn’t show

Normal for 4B. Smoothing gel through small sections, or twisting, brings out definition.

See the 4B wash day

Hair feels dry

Leave-in, then a cream or oil, on wet hair.

Fix dry hair

What 4B hair looks like

4B strands bend sharply instead of curling, so the hair forms a soft, cotton-like mass with little visible pattern until it is styled. It often mixes with 4A coils and 4C areas.

A 4B wash day

The American Academy of Dermatology suggests washing Black hair once a week or every other week, with conditioner every time.

  • Pre-poo with oil or conditioner if your hair knots easily.
  • Wash in sections, keeping each one twisted or clipped.
  • Condition every wash; detangle with fingers first, then a wide-tooth comb, ends first.
  • Put leave-in on wet hair, then a cream or butter to seal it.
  • Style in sections: twists, braids, or gel smoothed through small sections for definition.

A 4B hair routine and what it costs

One product for each wash-day step, chosen only from products whose makers say they’re for 4B hair, priced at each maker’s own store. The left column takes the cheapest per ounce at every step; the right takes the one in the middle. We haven’t tested them, and how your own hair responds matters more than the price.

Lowest price per ounce

The product at each step that costs least per ounce.

  1. Shampoo or co-wash As I Am Coconut CoWash Cleansing Conditioner · its maker says every curl pattern 16 oz, $8.99 at As I Am ($0.56/oz) What a wash costs at your amount
  2. Conditioner Aunt Jackie's In Control Moisturizing Softening Conditioner · its maker says every curl pattern 15 oz, $10.95 at Aunt Jackie's ($0.73/oz) What a wash costs at your amount
  3. Leave-in PATTERN Leave-In Conditioner 25 fl oz, $49.00 at PATTERN ($1.96/fl oz); 3 fl oz to try, $12.00 What a wash costs at your amount
  4. Styler The Doux BIG POPPA Defining Gel · its maker says every curl pattern 16 oz, $14.99 at The Doux ($0.94/oz) What a wash costs at your amount

To try it in the smallest sizes: $46.93
In the sizes above: $83.93

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Middle of the price range

The product in the middle of each step’s prices per ounce.

  1. Shampoo or co-wash Curlsmith Essential Moisture Shampoo · its maker says every curl pattern Full 12 fl oz, $26.00 at Curlsmith ($2.17/fl oz); Mini 3 oz to try, $12.50 What a wash costs at your amount
  2. Conditioner Bouclème Curl Conditioner · its maker says every curl pattern 1 liter, $78.00 at Bouclème ($2.31/fl oz); 100 mL to try, $18.00 What a wash costs at your amount
  3. Leave-in Bouclème Curl Cream 1 liter, $85.00 at Bouclème ($2.51/fl oz); 100 mL to try, $19.00 What a wash costs at your amount
  4. Styler Not Your Mother's Curl Talk Fragrance & Protein Free Sculpting Gel · its maker says every curl pattern 6 fl oz, $10.99 at Not Your Mother's ($1.83/fl oz) What a wash costs at your amount

To try it in the smallest sizes: $60.49
In the sizes above: $199.99

Open this routine in the planner

34 of the 41 products we list for 4B hair at these steps had a size in stock at the maker’s store when we read it, so only those are ranked. Some makers print “oz” without saying fluid or weight; we compare them as printed. Prices checked between and ; stores change them. Every price per ounce.

What usually goes wrong

With 4B, trouble mostly comes from tension and dryness. Combing a section that hasn’t been softened with conditioner snaps strands at the bends, and tight styles do the same over time. The AAD’s rule for braids and weaves is simple: if it hurts, it is too tight.

Products whose makers say they’re for 4B hair

These products’ own pages say they’re made for 4B hair, or for a range of curl patterns that includes it. The words are the maker’s; we haven’t tested these products, and how your own hair responds decides more than the label.

Named for 4B hair or a range that includes it (19)

Made for every curl pattern (42)

Updated · The sources for this guide are on our Sources page. Report a changed detail.

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